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The Temple of Guan Yu on Top of Mountain Mopan

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Guan Yu refers to a Han general of the Three Kingdoms periods (220-280), but in Lhasa there is also a temple to Guan Yu, demonstrating the diversity of religion in Lhasa.

In 1793, Qing Dynasty Emperor Qianlong sent General Fukang'an to fight the Korgas when the later invaded Tibet. After achieving victory, General Fukang'an was on his way home at the head of his army when he stopped in Lhasa. The general believed that he had won the battle in a dangerous environment and hostile climate mainly because of spiritual assistance from the Han General Guan Yu. The rank and file of his army raised 7,000 taels of silver, and General Fukang'an and the Prince Regent joined forces to use the money to build the Temple of Ghuan Yu on top of Mountain Pamari (also known as the Mopan). Guan Yu closely resembled King Gesar, who is revered by the Tibetans, in appearance, and the Han general is also referred to as Gesar Lhakang. For more than 200 years, the Tibetans have carried out divinations in front of the statue of General Guan Yu. Some bring chickens to the temple that are then released, and the area surrounding the temple is full of chickens scratching for food.


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Razheng Monastery

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When Master Adixa died in 1054, his leading disciple, Zhongdunba, built Razheng Monastery beside the picturesque Lhasa River in accordance with his late master's wishes. Henceforth, Razheng Monastery became the ancestral monastery of the Gedain Sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The Qambai Dorje enshrined in the monastery symbolizes the master, and there is also a graceful statue of the guardian of Buddhism, Qinggar Lhabaizhang. The mountain paths are rugged, and in the past the monastery was only accessible on foot or on horseback. However, there is now a highway from Lhasa to Lhunzhub County, where one crosses Mountain Kyalag and follows the Lhasa River upstream to the monastery. Shaded by trees, the monastery consists of sutra halls, Buddha halls, and dormitories for the monks. Southeast of the monastery is Yanggun Monastery which is built between the rocks. Master Zongkapa wrote his Great Exposition on the Stages of the Path to Enlightenment at Yanggun Monastery. Initially, disciples of Zhongdunba served as abbots of the monastery. In the 18th century, the 7th Dalai Lama installed his sutra tutor, Ngawang Qoidain, as the Hutogtu of Razheng Monastery, and he became the first Living Buddha azheng. An incarnation system was later introduced at the monastery to select the soul boy of the deceased Living Buddha Razheng. The 5th Living Buddha Razheng, Tubdain Gyainbai Yexei, served as the Prince Regent on the death of the 13th Daial Lama. He supported the Chinese central government policy for national unity, but was eventually murdered. The monastery holds the Kuyoqoiba (Cuckoo Worshipping) Ceremony on the 15th day of the fourth month in the Tibetan calendar. On the 15th day of the 7th month every 12 years, the monastery also stages the Pobentanggor Festival during which ten thousand believers walk around the soul rock in procession and worship Buddha statues.


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The Monastery of Tara and the Grand Buddha Statue in Nyetang

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Driving from Gonggar Aiport to Lhasa, one reaches an area of flat land in Nyetang, approximately 20 km away from the holy city. North of the highway is a small monastery which houses the statue of Zhomalhakang Tara. In 1046, Adixa was invited to Nyetang by his disciple Zhongdunba and others. Adixa stayed in Nyetang from this time onwards, and when he died in 1054, his disciples built the monastery to hold the statue of the speaking Tara which Adixa had worshipped. Near the monastery was a dagoba which serves as the tomb for some of Adixa's bones. Over the centuries, the monastery has attracted an endless flow of worshippers, including those from Adixa's former home, Bangladesh. To the east and not far from the monastery is a carved rock statue of the Nyetang Buddha, another favorite site with visitors to the Lhasa are.


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Qoigung Ruins

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photo of Qoigung Ruins
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In October 1983, Tibetan archaeologists unearthed artifacts at Qoigung Village in the Nyangri Gully, north of Lhasa. These artifacts revealed aspects of civilization in Lhasa from 4,000 years ago and earlier.

They were found in ash pits and tombs that contained stone coffins with bodies with folded limbs. More than 10,000 kinds of objects and a large number of animal bones were found. Objects included stone knives, stone axes, stone shovels, grinding stones, bone awls, bone needles; and bone arrow heads were also found. One of the bone needles had an eye as if for thread, resembling the sewing needles we use today. Large quantities of hand-made pottery were also uncovered in the ruins. Gray, polished black or brown in color, they display sawtooth and string like patterns, as well as carved patterns formed with awls. These artifacts provide evidence that there were people living in areas around Lhasa more than 4,000 years ago, and that they lived on farming, livestock breeding, hunting and gathering. Fishing net pendulums and fish bones uncovered in the ruins reveal that Lhasa River then teemed with fish, and that the locals had a habit of eating fish.

The Qoigung ruins cover an area of 5,000 square meters, only a part of which have been unearthed. More artifacts are expected to be found.


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Ramoche Monastery

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According to legend, Ramoche Monastery, located in the northeastern section of Lhasa, was commissioned, constructed and consecrated at the same time as Jokhang Monastery. Built under the aegis of the Tang Dynasty Princess Wencheng, the gate of the monastery faces east to show the princess's nostalgia for her homeland. The temple was known as Gyuiada Ramo Chezolhakang, meaning a “monastery incarnated from a Han tiger”. In Tibetan, Jokhang means a major Buddha while Rachome means a minor Buddha.

Enshrined in the major hall of Ramoche Monastery is a statue of Sakyamuni, which Princess Wencheng took with her to Tibet from Chang'an (now known as Xi'an), while the major hall of the Jokhang Monastery houses the statue of Sakyamuni taken from Kathmandu to Tibet by the Nepalese Princess Bhributi. The two monasteries later exchanged their statues of Sakyamuni. According to the records of Jokhang Monastery, which was established by the 5th Dalai Lama, the statue of Sakyamuni from Chang'an was initially housed in Ramoche Monastery, but after the death of the Tubo king Songtsan Gambo, Jokhang and Ramoche monasteries exchanged the statues of Sakyamuni in accordance with instructions issued by Princess Wencheng. The statue of Sakyamuni from Kathmandu is thus the major Buddha statue worshipped at Ramoche Monastery.

Ramoche Monastery consists of three storeys, the lower floor consists of a portico, sutra and Buddha halls, which are surrounded by a corridor for ritual perambulations. The walls of the corridor are covered with painted statues of the Amitabha Buddha. The top storey is covered with Han-style golden tiles which glisten in the sun and can be seen from all corners of Lhasa. The Lhasa Upper Tantric College for monks of the Gelug Sect has been established in Ramoche Monastery, and the college abbot also serves as the abbot of the monastery.


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