The heart of Phnom Penh life is a small, fairly nondescript square of land at the junction of Sisowath Quay and Street 184, in front of the Royal Palace. It's here that Cambodians used to congregate to listen to declarations and speeches from the monarch, and where Khmer families still gather in the evenings and at weekends. Picnics, games, kite flying, and perhaps a cup of dteuk k'nai choo are the order of the day. Running to the north and south of here is the scenic Sisowath Quay, lined with tall palms on one side, and bars, cafés and restaurants on the other. In the middle of the day the area is deserted, save for the odd tourist, but as evening draws in, the quay is transformed into a popular and lively social centre - the Phnom Penhois enjoy the simple pleasures of the fine river views from the riverbank, the expats, tourists and well-to-do locals do the same from the luxury of the bars across the road. |