When the train reaches Kunlun Pass, visitor will notice two stone tablets at the roadside. On one of them is inscribed “Kunlun Pass”, on the other “Kekexili Nature Reserve”. Are visitor going to see Tibetan antelopes (chirus) as featured in the film Kekexili: Mountain Patrol?
Kekexili (Hoh Xil in Tibetan) means “beautiful young girl”. But visitor see no woods or villages, and the scenery can hardly be described as “beautiful”. Moreover, it is freezing here. In the coldest season the temperature can reach as low as 40 degrees centigrade below zero. Even inside the well-insulated carriage we can hear the roaring wind outside.
An environmentalist on the train tells visitor that despite the harsh climatic and geographical conditions, Kekexili is a paradise for wildlife, being home to more than 230 species of wild animals, many of which are important state-protected wild animals. To protect the antelopes' habitat and their normal migration patterns and routes, a total of 33 wild animal passages have been built along the Qinghai-Tibet railway line. On our way we frequently see road signs like “Beware! Antelopes Crossing” and “Wildlife Migration Corridor ahead”.
In the past poaching was rampant in Kekexili and wild animals never dared to come close to humans. The situation is much better now. Looking out the carriage window we see wild yaks stampede past the train. A fellow passenger who is a truck driver says that whenever local drivers see antelopes in the distance approaching the highway they will stop and wait until the whole herd crosses the highway. It seems that humans are on pretty good terms with wild animals now. But sometimes the wild animals' over-friendly gestures will bring us trouble. For example, railway managers face a problem every so often when wild yaks get onto the rail track.
Then our train brings us to the Tuotuo River, the origin of the Yangtze River. Although a sizable river of dozens of meters in width, it doesn't have raging torrents or roaring waves as one would associate with the mighty Yangtze. Instead it just flows serenely eastwards.
Kekexili is really a miraculous place. It is incredible that such harsh conditions should breed such lovely creatures. |